Many adjectives are being employed to describe the state of the towns
along the lower Schuylkill River; I have yet to encounter “charming.” That’s a shame, but quite understandable. Norristown and
Pottstown, the larger towns—with the larger problems—get the most attention,
mostly negative, the kind that makes news.
Phoenixville, by considerable contrast, is a “happening” town, as are
the Conshohockens, although what is happening there is fundamentally different. The smaller ones assume a sort of
invisibility; they don’t enter into the discussion.
So I hereby nominate two Schuylkill River towns for the title of
“Charming.” They are Royersford and
Spring City. Of the eight towns along
the Schuylkill River between Reading and Philadelphia, Royersford and Spring
City are the only two that deserve the appellation “charming,” because they
are, in the old-fashioned sense of the term.
I said charming, not bustling, and certainly not “happening.” Their attraction is simply their
atmosphere. They are lifestyle gems lying
along the riverbank, waiting to be rediscovered.
Both are little versions of the norm for Schuylkill towns, built along
the road that approaches the river and that which parallels the river, and out
from their intersection near the riverbank itself. Royersford’s Main Street descends to the
river, while Spring City’s Main Street parallels it. The downtowns that spread out from those intersections
are largely empty now. Royersford’s
last remaining large downtown commercial business, the LeBow Furniture Store, a
Main Street fixture since the 1940s and family owned, closed just this
year. Spring City clings even more
precariously to its hillside than does Royersford. Its Main Street offers the contrasting view
of buildings along the riverside that are built out on foundations over the
incline, while those on the opposite site are cut into the hillside itself. Spring
City’s downtown retains more of its old, graceful buildings, with the Spring
City Hotel, which dates back to 1896, at the center.
But it is the area between downtown and the river of both boroughs that
has changed the most. The industries
which used to line the banks of both boroughs are virtually gone. Buckwalter Stove Works was Royersford’s
largest employer, whose payroll at its height was about 1,200. It was located just upriver from the bridge. Little remains but one building, preserved
and repurposed with a grant. Across the river, the Spring
City Foundry Company, which sits on the site of the original 1840 stove
factory, still makes cast iron products.
Today they make lampposts. The
new ones being installed in both Royersford and Spring City were made here, but
so were all the lampposts in all Disney locations. That’s pretty much it.
This is the
important change, the one that has made both Royersford and Spring City quaint and to me, at least, charming places to live. For those of us who don’t remember the
industrial heyday of the Schuylkill River towns, it is difficult to image how
utterly uncharming their riversides were.
Descending to the river from either side was akin to entering Dante’s Inferno.
Right up close to both downtowns—within one block at the most—were the
very fires of hell that rendered iron and steel into usable items. The factories were bunched closely together,
and the cumulative heat and smoke literally hung over the area, sometimes
obscuring the sun.
The riverside was a cacophony of noise; the ground itself shook and the air stank from the factories, augmented frequently by the sound and smoke of the
railroad trains that delivered the raw materials and carried away the finished
products. The din was awful, as
hammers pounded metal, and metal shrieked in protest. The fewer but still numerous textile
factories did not belch as much heat or flame, but the air inside, full of
small bits of thread, must have been at least as unhealthy for the women
crowded at their spindles. Those
industries also dumped their wastes into the river indiscriminately, rendering
it little more than a fetid sewer in warm weather. No one used it for anything if they could
avoid it. Ah, the good old days.
During the industrial heyday of the Schuylkill River towns, the
objective of virtually all their residents was to live as far away from the river as their incomes allowed. Only the poorest—the day laborers, the
unskilled—lived close to the river, and then only because that's where the
cheapest shacks were. Those with
steadier working class lives moved as far up the hillsides of both towns as
they could while still walking to work.
The emerging manager/white collar class could afford to move farther
away, particularly once local trolleys began operating. The earliest local tycoons built homes in
downtown, the better to demonstrate their wealth, but later generations would
construct their mansions farther and farther away, usually up the hill. They had private carriages, and then
automobiles, to transport them.
But that was then. This is now,
and things have changed. In fact, they
have changed a full 180 degrees. The old
realities that gave birth to and shaped the river towns are gone. Industry is one of them. Businesses, even factories remain, but the
riverbanks have undergone—and are still undergoing—fundamental change. Now, as you descend into either Royersford or
Spring City, the air is not just clean, it’s cooler, not to mention
quieter. The intersection of Main Street
and 1st Street in Royersford was ground zero for noise in the good old days; now it has a small riverfront park, featuring lampposts made just
across the river. A few trains belonging
to Norfolk Southern Railroad still pass through, but they carry no
passengers. The old Reading track bed
now hosts bikers and walkers on the Schuylkill River Trail, along what is now a
scenic river.
The future of the
old riverside industrial sectors in each Schuylkill River town lies in residence
and recreation. Yet the “twin boroughs”
demonstrates by their differing paths in this direction that the specific
future still depends on the ancient past, the geography of the land
itself. Royersford possesses the larger
riverside floodplain. Empty buildings
littered the area until after the turn of the new century, but that is
changing. South of the bridge is
“Riverwalk at Royersford,” a planned residential development. The plan had been more transformative, but
the bad economic times of recent years have diminished those hopes. Not all the old buildings have been torn
down; one nearby sports a mural that evokes Royersford’s industrial past. It should be judged as art, not history (the
Reading’s locomotive is purple, and should have been green). The recent bad economic times also explain the
riverfront park; a six-floor apartment building was planned for the site, but a
developer could not be found. The
Borough bought the ground and made it into a recreation area instead.
Spring City has
taken a different path. It has
also refurbished and repurposed old factories for housing; not condominiums for
young couples but residence communities for seniors. There are no fewer than four such centers in
the community. One of them is in the
center of town, the former Flag Factory, renovated and
converted into housing. Another is
located in the old Gruber Mill farther along Main Street. All four are for seniors with limited
incomes.
Even less may be
“happening” in Spring City than in Royersford, but that—and the beautiful old buildings—are
exactly why I would, if forced, rate Spring City as the more “charming” of the
two. But there’s another reason I like
it: Spring City is actually about to open a new library. I feel like that statement should be bolded,
or at least capitalized, and the news spread far and wide. What town opens a new library today? Ten years ago, a 100-year old ex-Spring City librarian
died without heirs, and left $500,000 each to the library and to her
church. The library struggled for ten
years to fulfill her wish for a new building.
Opposition arose, from some on borough council, who believed that
libraries are a thing of the past in this digital era, but more sadly, so from
the church that was the co-beneficiary of her will. They placed every possible obstacle in the way,
but when I drove by this past spring, the parking lot had just been paved. Any town that makes such a stake in the
future deserves a good one.
In the final
analysis, what makes the twin boroughs charming places to live is that they
have managed to retain much of what was good about the
old days—the closeness of everything, beautiful old buildings—while having shed
what was bad: the grime, pollution, noise, smoke and smell. They are quiet, scenic places to live, and
those are hard to find these days. And
who knows, your arrival might be the spark that allows them to be
“discovered.” The old storefronts
virtually cry out for new, trendy niche businesses, and the several vacant ones
suggest that the rent will be cheap. Why
couldn’t Royersford and Spring City become miniature versions of Phoenixville?